Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
